32

there are many things here that are familiar to me, and would be familiar to anyone who's lived consciously in a developing country: those whiffs of burning trash, raw sewage, frying food, body odor; public displays of belching, nose picking, blowing snot on the sidewalk; chaotic traffic, total lack of right of way, and a dearth of sidewalks and pedestrian signals; families of four or five on a single motorcylce or scooter; waking up to neighbors hacking up a lung; abysmal music in bars and clubs, invariably including "what's going on" by four non blondes and "one more time" by daft punk; the laid back approach to time and punctuality; neglected dogs, often traveling in packs; the glaring discrepancy between rich and poor, light and dark skin; etc.

things i've never seen before: so many young children who are homeless and made to beg; decorated cows hanging out in the middle of the street or lying on the side of the road (it's a criminal offense to hit and kill a cow); and the extent to which public spaces are male-dominated.

today i decided to treat myself to an ayurvedic oil massage in honor of my birthday. (special shout out to my mom who did the hardest work that day 32 years ago!) it was quite an experience. i wouldn't describe it has relaxing per se, since i had to sustain some uncomfortable positions while oiled up and sliding around on a plastic massage table. two women worked on me, one on each side, both sets of hands vigorously rubbing the length of my body, perfectly in synch, and leaving not one millimeter untouched. we're talkin' boobs, butt crack, they really went for it man! the day ended with my dear surabhi taking me to a very yummy and fancy italian restaurant.

lastly, greta bought her ticket today. yipeeee!